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Updated 7 January 2021

Shop Marrakech with luxe nomad Lee Tulloch

Lee Tulloch shops Marrakech - Temple & Webster Journal

Travel writer and author Lee Tulloch (pictured above in Shanghai!) and her photographer husband Tony Amos are the creators of online travel magazine Mr and Mrs Amos, and Lee writes the Luxe Nomad column in Saturday's Traveller section for Fairfax. They share a few shopping secrets from Marrakech, as well as the opportunity to join them for a small group tour in March 2016 to Tangier, Rabat, Fez and magical Marrakech. Details are below.

Shop Marrakech with Lee Tulloch - Temple & Webster Journal

Wherever I travel, I seek out the bazaar or market first. I have to say there's nowhere on earth as thrilling as the shops and market stalls inside the medina, or old walled city, in Marrakech. To enter its portals is to step into a labyrinth of delights, of mysterious doorways, tantalising fragrances, mesmerising patterns and some of the most exquisite artisanal creations you can find anywhere, from filigree lamps to finely woven raffia shoes. It helps if you have a personal shopper with you or a guide who knows the best artisans in the city, as there's a lot of mass-produced stuff masquerading as artisanal.

Shop Marrakech with Lee Tulloch - Temple & Webster Journal

The carpet stalls are legendary, with a mind-boggling array of handmade designs, from Berber rugs and thick, creamy shedwi carpets to intricate oriental patterns and some dazzling rag rugs. Walk into a carpet store with the intention of buying and do indulge in some friendly haggling - you're likely to come away with the whole fascinating story of the carpet's manufacture as well something to treasure forever.

Shop Marrakech with Lee Tulloch - Temple & Webster Journal

At every turn there are surprises, including vats of wool being dyed and strung to dry over doorways. The beauty of the souk is that much of what you buy is still manufactured within these kilometres of alleyways - but always check carefully to see if it's locally made, as many stalls push inauthentic goods as well. (The butter soft yellow leather slippers are a must-have.)

Shop Marrakech with Lee Tulloch - Temple & Webster Journal

I love stumbling a cross a scene like this - dyed skins drying in the street. This electric blue colour is particularly associated with Marrakech and Yves Saint Laurent's yellow and azure Le Jardin Majorelle.

Shop Marrakech with Lee Tulloch - Temple & Webster Journal

The bric-a-brac is also amazing. Some of the best finds are pieces salvaged from buildings, such as old locks and keys. There are millions of them!

Shop Marrakech with Lee Tulloch - Temple & Webster Journal

I could spend hours in the alluring apothecary shops that line the souk. Inside, you can purchase everything from dried roses and spices to the smoky black kajal with which the women line their eyes to bizarre biological specimens, dried and stored in jars, waiting to be concocted into medicinal potions and beauty treatments. I've never been game enough to try any, but the terracotta pots of kajal make wonderful gifts.

Shop Marrakech with Lee Tulloch - Temple & Webster Journal

The number of shops selling filigree metal lamps in the souk is completely overwhelming if you don't know where to head. We found everything we desired at Oumamass Said, a glittering shop that occupies several levels (go up to the roof for a great view of the medina). They ship internationally.

Shop Marrakech with Lee Tulloch - Temple & Webster Journal

Many visitors don't know this, but outside the walls of the medina, there's the industrial estate of Sidi Ghanem, which features a number of small factories. It's not as atmospheric as the souk, but there are a few excellent bargains to be had. Many of Marrakech’s hotels and riads buy their embroidered linens from Chez Zoe, a factory and showroom where you can order hooded towelling robes, sheets and other linens, hand-decorated with blanket stitch or any insignia to suit. There’s a ten-day turnaround but they ship.  Great value.

Shop Marrakech with Lee Tulloch - Temple & Webster Journal

I bought a favourite calfskin bag from Martine Hillen, a Moroccan local leathergoods designer who makes gorgeous, stylish bags and carryalls in great colours from the butteriest leather imaginable. The shop is in Sidi Ghanem.

Shop Marrakech with Lee Tulloch - Temple & Webster Journal

Marrakech flickers with candle light at night. If you'd like to bring some home, the most fashionable candle-maker is Amira, also in Sidi Ghanm. You'll find candles in a great range of colours and sizes – and fragrances. They’re so hip, John Malkovich designed a range of candles for the brand.

Shop Marrakech with Lee Tulloch - Temple & Webster Journal

It's obligatory to visit Yves Saint Laurent's magnificent Le Jardin Majorelle just outside the medina, and it won't disappoint, despite the tourist hoards. But few know there's a marvellous contemporary boutique directly across the road. 33 Rue Majorelle is stocked with intriguing clothing for men and women, footwear, jewellery and homewares from over sixty talented local designers. The two-level shop houses an art gallery and a great little café, Kaowa, on the ground floor. Date almond milk smoothies are recommended as sustenance before the next round of shopping!

Words by Lee Tulloch. Images by Tony Amos. Join Lee and Tony on a small group tour of magical Morocco in March 2016, staying in gorgeous ryads and villas, discovering the magnificent cities and history of this exotic kingdom and dining and shopping like an insider. Enquiries and bookings via the By Prior Arrangement website, or call Carol Prior on 0415 637 985.

 

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